Archive for the 'Rebedding' Category

Sealant jobs

I (Jon) finished these jobs variously on Dec. 15th, 16th, and 20th.

I put a bead of UV 4200 under both sides of the cap rail and along the edge of all of the port lights. Some places on the cap rail, particularly at the stern had large, deep gaps. I tried to make sure that 4200 got all the way into the back of the gap and it was completely filled.

I also put a new bead around the sinks in the galley and along all of the edges of the galley countertop.


Moved Propane Locker, Added Lazarette

The old propane locker was a fiberglass box mounted in the middle of the stern.  It protruded 5″ above the level of the seat, and was suspended in the enormous space of the lazarette, rendering the space unusable and the seat unseatable.

We decided to remove the old propane locker, build a new one tucked into the corner as much as possible, and put flush fitting hatches over the lazarette and propane locker.  The job ended up being the biggest so far undertaken on the boat, and isn’t yet finished.  Of the many unforeseen hurdles, we discovered that we needed to move and/or reroute all three of the scupper drains on the port side, to accomodate the new propane locker (not to mention close the old propane drain and install a new one).  So this job alone required 4 new through-hulls and two new scupper drains on deck.

Additionally, the deck just forward of the propane locker, especially around the rudder access hatch, was extensively delaminated (core was perceptibly soggy, damp, and black).  Jonny elected to dig out the core from the hatch and rudder post hole (i.e. without removing the top or bottom layer of fiberglass), and ended up removing the core to a distance of close to a foot in the space forward of the new lazarette hatch (there are some pictures of it).  Then he carefully measured and cut a few pieces of plywood that he buttered with epoxy and then shoved into the gap.  Afterwards there were some gaps left in the core where the plywood didn’t quite reach that I injected with resin, per the usual method (drill holes for the syringe, inject resin until it splooges out all over, let it cure, sand off the puddles of resin, quikfair the remaining divets, sand again).

We built the new propane locker and the hatches out of the leftover fiberglass-covered plywood that we had fabricated for the icebox. We used two layers of the plywood for each of the hatches (the plywood was super thin), as well as a couple extra layers of knytex for additional strength.

Jonny painstakingly glassed the box in place using strips of knytex–the box was odd shaped to accomodate the curves of the hull and the deck/coaming/toerail ceiling section.

We made the ledges on which the lids will rest out of 3/8″ thick prefab FRP from Mcmaster-carr.  The lip is about 1/2″ wide, and the strip that forms the lip extends ~1-1/2″ underneath the deck.  The strips are epoxied in place (jonny pre-drilled pilot holes and screwed the strips in place to properly position them while the epoxy cured).

Fairing and sanding the edges of everything was time consuming, as it always is.  It consisted of at least two rounds of Quikfairing, preceded by, separated by, and followed by tedious amounts of sanding.

I entirely replumbed the propane lines while we were at it.  Per jonny’s insistence we went with a hose to run from the stern to the stove, instead of copper tubing.  It was definitely the right choice.  It was slightly more expensive, but eliminated extra junctions required at the stove.  A hose is required at the stove to accommodate the gimballing, and this way the one 25′ hose runs straight to the back of the stove.  I purchased the new style qcc quick connector to be used for attaching to the propane tanks–the previous system required wrenches, and the apparatus that connected to the tank (which included the regulator and the pressure gauge) was awkward and unwieldy.  Now a single high pressure line is connected to the active tank, and the regulator, pressure gauge, and other connections are mounted to the propane locker wall.  I also added a T-junction and short additional hose with a valve inside the propane locker (in the low pressure side) to be used for a propane grill to be mounted on the rail (which we don’t yet own).

The resulting storage space gained in the stern is astounding.  I could lay down and take a nap in the space that we previously had no access to.

Turns out we left too much of a gap for the gasket, and the lids sink too low, so I created a wall of foil tape around the inside edge, and poured a mixture of slightly thickened epoxy into the gap.  After it cured I ground/sanded it down to the right depth for the gasket.

I figured out the hinge situation.  Then we painted the lids and the lips with two coats of the Primekote epoxy primer.  That’s as far as we’ve got so far.  Very close.

I’m not finished posting pictures yet, stay tuned for more.

Rebedded Dorade Boxes

To install the forward portlight, the dorade box had to be removed.  After taking out the four screws that secure the box onto two mounting strips, we were able to clearly note that the mounting strips were completely rotten and soggy.  The heads of all the screws securing the mounting strips to the deck broke right off, and the mounting strip pulled right off of the screws.  We drilled all new holes in the deck and filled them all with thickened epoxy to serve as sealed mounting points for the new strips, which will be teak treated with multiple coats of penetrating epoxy.

Rebedded pushpit & aft cleats

My god there is so much through the deck that needs to be rebedded.  Just another few to add to the list.  Jonny had a great time climbing down and through the lazarette to reach all of the nuts on the starboard side (we haven’t attacked the lazarette locker redo as of yet).

In the process of removing the pushpit the nav lights got drilled through, so there is an extra splice right beneath the deck, the purpose of which will probably confuse future owners.

Rebedded stanchions and bow pulpit

I had been imagining that this task would involve annoying labor over a period of months, but Jonny decided the issue by removing all the stanchions on Monday.  Since we wanted to sail on the weekend, we got our act in gear.

We drilled out the holes, cored out the deck a little ways back inside each hole (more on the gates since we wanted a larger load bearing plug of epoxy), taped the bottoms of the holes, and filled them with thickened epoxy.  When the epoxy cured it left little mounds on top of each hole (we slightly overfill) which I then sanded down.  I’ve taken to duct taping the shop vac to our orbital sander and using 36 grit paper–it is an extremely efficient and clean way to fair off the excess epoxy, without the danger of accidentally grinding off the gelcoat (which seems to happen everytime I turn on the grinder).

Then we drilled out new holes through the center of each epoxy plug, and remounted the stanchions using 3M 4200UV fast cure as the sealant.  We used to use Lifecaulk, but it takes too long to cure.  See, this is the thing: in order to do it right, you need to not tighten the bolts all the way, but leave a gap in which the sealant can cure, then you tighten the bolts fully and it’s a perfect gasket since the squeezing expands the rubbery sealant to fill all gaps.  But if you use a slow drying sealant, it is too tempting to skip that step and just tighten it fully, rationalizing that the seal will be good enough.  But it’s not true.  We did this exact thing–used lifecaulk and tightened before it dried–when we remounted the bow pulpit after trucking it up from Mexico (we should have cored and epoxied then, but we forgot).  And this time when we pulled it up, the forward starboard plate very clearly had water penetrating beneath it.  Bummer.  The fast cure dries in 24 hours, so use the fast cure and leave everything loose for just one more day because it’s worth it.

We still have to rebed the stern pushpit.

Replaced jib car tracks; replaced deck underneath tracks

We traced a bad leak in the quarterberth to the port side track, and it was bad enough to need to be addressed immediately.  Jonny pulled up both tracks.  On the starboard side we got away with drilling, coring out the balsa, and filling the plugs with epoxy before redrilling new holes and mounting the new track from Garhauer (1-1/4"  10′ long).  On the port side we weren’t so lucky.  Jonny discovered that a 1′ x 10′ section of the balsa was rotted out, so he cut the top side of the deck off, chiseled out all the balsa, cut a new piece of marine plywood to fit, and glassed over the top with epoxy and knytex (great fiberglass available from TAP plastics–layer of cloth backed stitched to mat–good for building up thickness fast).  I laboriously ground down and faired it afterwards (Quik Fair is my fairing product of choice for this task).  Initially I was trying to do my grinding with a grinding blade on our 4" grinder, but the radius is too small for quick, pretty work.  So we bought a variable speed 5" Milwaukee grinder, took the guard off, and put a 7" sanding disc on it.  I bought some 36 grit discs for it, and ran it at low rpms.  This is DEFINITELY the tool to use for this job.  We painted over the work with a two-part epoxy primer and we’ll finish the rest of the painting, etc when we get around to doing the rest of the deck.